:root{
  --bg:#faf7f2;--card:#fff;--ink:#1f1a17;--muted:#6b625a;--line:#ebe3d8;
  --ember:#c8552b;--ember-d:#a3441f;--ember-l:#fbe9df;--night:#1d2226;--night2:#2a3035;--wood:#8a5a3b;--sand:#f3ece2;
  --r:16px;--shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(31,26,23,.05),0 8px 24px rgba(31,26,23,.06);
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.6 Inter,system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,Arial,sans-serif;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
a{color:var(--ember-d)}
h1,h2,h3,.h3{font-family:Fraunces,Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-.015em;line-height:1.15;margin:0 0 .5em;font-weight:600}
h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,5.2vw,3.6rem)}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.1rem)}
h3,.h3{font-size:1.25rem}
p{margin:0 0 1em}
.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
.block{padding:56px 20px}
.center{text-align:center}
.muted{color:var(--muted)}
.eyebrow{font:600 .78rem/1 Inter,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#f0b48f;margin-bottom:14px}
.eyebrow.dark{color:var(--ember-d)}
.lead{font-size:1.15rem;color:#d7d0c8;max-width:40em}
.lead-dark{font-size:1.12rem;color:var(--muted);max-width:44em}

/* nav */
.nav{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:1000;background:rgba(250,247,242,.92);backdrop-filter:saturate(1.4) blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.nav-in{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:66px}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font:600 1.3rem Fraunces,serif;letter-spacing:-.02em}
.brand b{color:var(--ember);font-weight:700}
.brand.light{color:#fff}
.nav ul{display:flex;gap:26px;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.nav ul a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
.nav ul a:hover,.nav ul a[aria-current]{color:var(--ember-d)}
.menu-btn{display:none;background:none;border:0;width:40px;height:40px;cursor:pointer;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;gap:6px;align-items:center}
.menu-btn span{display:block;width:22px;height:2px;background:var(--ink);border-radius:2px}
@media(max-width:820px){
  .menu-btn{display:flex}
  .nav nav{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;top:66px;background:var(--bg);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:none}
  .menu-open .nav nav{display:block}
  .nav ul{flex-direction:column;gap:0;padding:8px 20px 16px}
  .nav ul a{display:block;padding:12px 0;font-size:1.05rem}
}

/* buttons */
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:8px;padding:13px 22px;border-radius:12px;font:600 1rem Inter,sans-serif;text-decoration:none;border:2px solid transparent;cursor:pointer;transition:transform .12s,background .15s}
.btn:hover{transform:translateY(-1px)}
.btn-ember{background:var(--ember);color:#fff}
.btn-ember:hover{background:var(--ember-d)}
.btn-dark{background:var(--night);color:#fff}
.btn-line{border-color:var(--line);color:var(--ink);background:#fff}
.btn-ghost-light{border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.35);color:#fff}
.btn.full{width:100%;margin-top:10px}

/* hero */
.hero{position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:radial-gradient(900px 480px at 80% 110%,rgba(200,85,43,.55),transparent 60%),radial-gradient(700px 400px at 10% -10%,rgba(138,90,59,.45),transparent 60%),var(--night);color:#fff}
.hero-in{position:relative;padding:92px 20px 80px}
.hero h1{color:#fff;max-width:13em}
.steam span{position:absolute;bottom:-40px;width:220px;height:520px;border-radius:50%;background:radial-gradient(closest-side,rgba(255,255,255,.10),transparent);filter:blur(8px);animation:rise 14s linear infinite}
.steam span:nth-child(1){right:8%;animation-delay:0s}
.steam span:nth-child(2){right:22%;animation-delay:-5s;width:160px}
.steam span:nth-child(3){right:36%;animation-delay:-9s;width:260px}
@keyframes rise{0%{transform:translateY(40%) scaleX(.8);opacity:0}30%{opacity:1}100%{transform:translateY(-60%) scaleX(1.3);opacity:0}}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.steam span{animation:none;opacity:.5}}
.search{display:flex;gap:10px;max-width:560px;margin:28px 0 22px;background:#fff;padding:6px;border-radius:14px;box-shadow:0 20px 50px rgba(0,0,0,.25)}
.search input{flex:1;border:0;font:500 1rem Inter,sans-serif;padding:10px 12px;min-width:0;background:transparent;color:var(--ink)}
.search input:focus{outline:none}
.stats{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 26px;color:#cfc6bd;font-size:.95rem}
.stats b{color:#fff}

/* sections */
.sec-head{display:flex;align-items:flex-end;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin-bottom:24px}
.sec-head h2{margin:0}
.more{font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}
.cities{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:14px}
.city{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:2px;padding:18px 18px 16px;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);transition:transform .15s,box-shadow .15s}
.city:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.city .flag{font-size:1.5rem}
.city b{font:600 1.2rem Fraunces,serif}
.city span:last-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:.9rem}
@media(max-width:820px){.cities{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}

/* explorer */
.explore{background:var(--sand);padding:56px 0}
.filters{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:10px}
.filters input,.filters select{font:500 .95rem Inter,sans-serif;padding:12px 14px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:#fff;color:var(--ink);width:100%}
.toggles{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:12px 0 20px;align-items:center}
.tog{font:500 .88rem Inter,sans-serif;padding:8px 14px;border-radius:30px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:#fff;color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer}
.tog[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--night);color:#fff;border-color:var(--night)}
.count{margin-left:auto;color:var(--muted);font-size:.9rem}
.ex-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:20px;align-items:start}
.ex-list{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px;max-height:760px;overflow:auto;padding-right:4px}
.map{border-radius:var(--r);border:1px solid var(--line);background:#e9e4dc;z-index:1}
.map.sticky{position:sticky;top:86px;height:760px}
@media(max-width:900px){.filters{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.filters input{grid-column:1/-1}.ex-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.map.sticky{position:relative;top:0;height:380px;order:-1}.ex-map{order:-1}.ex-list{max-height:none}.count{margin-left:0;width:100%}}
.empty{padding:30px;text-align:center;color:var(--muted);background:#fff;border-radius:var(--r)}

/* cards */
.card{display:block;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:20px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);transition:transform .15s,box-shadow .15s}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.card h3{margin:10px 0 4px}
.card-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:10px}
.badge{font:600 .72rem Inter,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--wood);background:var(--sand);padding:5px 9px;border-radius:20px}
.price{font-weight:700;color:var(--ember-d);white-space:nowrap}
.loc{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem;margin-bottom:8px}
.desc{color:#4a433d;font-size:.95rem;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:3;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px}
.chip{font-size:.78rem;font-weight:500;padding:4px 10px;border-radius:20px;background:#f4f1ec;color:#4a433d}
.chip-sea-swim,.chip-lake-swim,.chip-ice-swimming{background:#e3eef3;color:#23556b}
.chip-smoke-sauna,.chip-wood-fired{background:var(--ember-l);color:var(--ember-d)}
.chip-free-entry{background:#e5f3e7;color:#24683a}
.chips.big .chip{font-size:.88rem;padding:6px 12px}
.grid2{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:14px}
.grid3{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:14px}
@media(max-width:900px){.grid3{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
@media(max-width:640px){.grid2{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* guide teaser + biz */
.guide-teaser{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:40px;align-items:center}
.gt-steps{list-style:none;counter-reset:s;padding:0;margin:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px}
.gt-steps li{counter-increment:s;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:18px}
.gt-steps li::before{content:counter(s);display:grid;place-items:center;width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--ember);color:#fff;font-weight:700;margin-bottom:10px}
.gt-steps b{display:block}
.gt-steps span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}
.biz{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;gap:30px;align-items:center;background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--night),var(--night2));color:#fff;border-radius:22px;padding:44px}
.biz h2{color:#fff}.biz p{color:#cfc6bd}
.biz-cta{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px}
@media(max-width:820px){.guide-teaser,.biz{grid-template-columns:1fr}.biz{padding:28px}}

/* detail */
.crumbs ol{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;padding:18px 0 0;margin:0;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted)}
.crumbs li+li::before{content:"›";margin-right:6px}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted);text-decoration:none}
.detail{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.7fr 1fr;gap:40px;padding-top:26px;padding-bottom:20px}
.detail h2{font-size:1.4rem;margin-top:32px}
.tips{padding-left:1.1em}.tips li{margin-bottom:6px}
.d-side{position:relative}
.facts{position:sticky;top:90px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:22px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.fact{padding:12px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.fact:last-of-type{border-bottom:0}
.fact span{display:block;font-size:.78rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:3px}
.fact small{display:block;color:var(--muted);margin-top:4px;font-size:.86rem}
.big-price{font:700 2rem Fraunces,serif;color:var(--ember-d)}
.verify{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:16px}
.src ul{display:inline;list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.src li{display:inline}.src li+li::before{content:", "}
@media(max-width:900px){.detail{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:10px}.d-side{order:-1}.facts{position:relative;top:0}}

/* city */
.city-head{padding-top:26px;padding-bottom:20px}
.city-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.3fr 1fr;gap:20px;align-items:start}
.city-grid .map{position:sticky;top:86px}
@media(max-width:900px){.city-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.city-grid .map{position:relative;top:0;height:320px!important}.city-grid>div:last-child{order:-1}}
.pills{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}
.pill{padding:8px 14px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:30px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-weight:500}
.pill:hover{border-color:var(--ember)}
.pill small,.country h2 small{color:var(--muted);font-weight:500;font-family:Inter,sans-serif;font-size:.8rem}
.countries{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:28px 40px}
@media(max-width:700px){.countries{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.note{background:var(--ember-l);border-radius:var(--r);padding:18px 20px;color:#5a2d18}

/* prose */
.prose{max-width:820px;padding-top:30px;padding-bottom:60px}
.prose.narrow{max-width:760px}
.prose h2{margin-top:2em}
.prose li{margin-bottom:.4em}
.toc{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:18px 22px;margin:26px 0}
.toc ol{margin:8px 0 0;padding-left:1.2em}
.tablewrap{overflow-x:auto}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;background:#fff;border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line)}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:12px 14px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
th{background:var(--sand);font-size:.85rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em}
.gloss dt{font-weight:700;margin-top:12px;font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:1.1rem}
.gloss dd{margin:2px 0 0;color:#4a433d}
.check{list-style:none;padding:0}.check li::before{content:"✓";color:var(--ember);font-weight:700;margin-right:10px}
.packs{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:14px;margin:24px 0}
.pack{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:20px}
@media(max-width:760px){.packs{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* footer */
.foot{background:var(--night);color:#b9b1a8;padding:56px 0 30px;margin-top:40px;font-size:.93rem}
.foot-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.6fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:30px}
.foot h4{color:#fff;font:600 .8rem Inter,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:6px 0 12px}
.foot ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.foot li{margin-bottom:6px}
.foot a{color:#e6dfd6;text-decoration:none}.foot a:hover{color:#fff}
.foot p{margin-top:14px}
.fine{border-top:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.1);padding-top:18px;margin-top:30px;font-size:.82rem}
@media(max-width:820px){.foot-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.foot-grid>div:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}}

/* leaflet popup */
.leaflet-popup-content{font:14px/1.4 Inter,sans-serif}
.leaflet-popup-content a{font-weight:600;color:var(--ember-d);text-decoration:none}

.pack-price{font:700 1.8rem Fraunces,serif;color:var(--ember-d);margin:0 0 8px}.pack-price small{font:500 .9rem Inter,sans-serif;color:var(--muted)}.small{font-size:.86rem}